Do you spray oil or automobile under carriage coating (which I think is lanolin) on your truck in preparation for winter? Or just oil the repair?

Did you close your weld or just weld at all half inch?Thanks

In other words, for certain areas where you can’t oil the inside (where the weld is not protected) you are actually better off with POR-15 and fiberglass, which will last much longer if done right.

Can I use painted aluminum with pop rivets over the original rusted steel panel? Would I use steel or aluminum pop rivets? I know steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals, but since the aluminum is painted, galvanic action should be minimal/eliminated? Of course aluminum easier to bend and would never rust. I have rocker panel.

you’re the best.. I just got a project car 1972 510, it has some spots that need cut out and fixed similar size to this. I only have a cheap harbor freight welder like the one you’ve made a few videos on… Do you think it will be fine for what I’m wanting to do to one car with a couple rust spots on quarters and rockers? or will I be wishing I had a mig for my project? I’ve never welded before.

That oil trick of yours is great advice!

Awesome,,Thanks.

This is Fantastic! Thank you for making this. Did you wash the truck very often during the winter in those 10 years? Also in your opinion does storing inside vs outside make a big difference on whether a vehicle will rust?

Old motor oil: how many miles should be on the oil before applying? Kidding.

Being from Frankenmuth, Michigan myself; I find your videos extremely helpful dealing with rusty panels. I’ve been wanting to take care of my father’s rocker panels on his 96 c1500 using his Miller fluxcore welder. I’ve purchased the body panels and will start tackling the work.

Thank you for not only demonstrating the work but explaining the why as well.

wouldve been nice to see the inside

I like to your videos a lot only thing I’m not a fan of is used oil has carbon in it that can cause an acid to rust faster new fresh oil is a lot safer my nabiour had his one car done oil sprayed with used oil and all along the spot welds in rocker panels and wheel wells rotted out faster he asked me why it rusted I asked him did he use the new oil he said used ah carbon from the motor an acid in the oil

you do a great job both butt and overlapping and give common sense reasons for your choice. that’s all that’s needed and the choices you made on the tailgate after ten years proves it! keep your videos a coming.

DONE TOTALLY CORRECT…. and I have done these types of repairs and they have lased 20 years….. OIL is the trick for you rust belt guys.

Thanks. This is helpful.

I’m doing cab corners on a 2010 ford f150 should I butt weld or lap weld them in

I’ve learned a ton from your channel thank you for your videos there very informative

Thanks so much for the information. I’m about to do a lot of work on my truck wasn’t wasn’t sure if it was worth it. Sounds like as long as I take care of it and keep fluid film or oil it should hold up fine

I am glad to find someone that use a lap weld or flange weld, if there is room for the tool. My son, 34 now, found a truck that needed work so he could start a lawn service. He quit his long time job after his boss gave him two weeks to learn Spanish for the guys he hired. Dad (Me) fixed the electrical, put a serpentine belt system with pulleys, brackets for missing parts and welded new metal for rust. Not too bad. He gave me the truck after he spent $600. It had new aluminized exhaust, valve job, carb, intake and like most kids, put a huge cam in a 72 Chevy 4 bolt 350, sitting in a 1967 C10. The rear window was horrible. They busted things but bolted a camper shell window in the cab crooked and gaps. A friend had a saws all with 4 batteries. These are dual skin, but found a large window with a slider in it. I was able to cut it out and paid $60 for it. To install, it has to be done in two parts. I drilled each pinch weld, cold galvanized. After measuring from 8 standard locations, trimmed the panels 5/8” over-sized, ground paint of, used masking tape, marks and cut short as I could use the flange tool inside and out. With 32 vise grips, all lined up, MIG the spot welds on both side. Complete all welds then used hard pressed thin layer of dynaglass into the tiny gap, cheese grater, filler to smooth and kept the OEM panel lines on the outside. It was sprayed inside with a yellow wax rust product I had from the dealer that closed. Anything open, went to the trash. All of the other techs found jobs as I dumpster dived each night. I am glad I could fit the flange tool as the 18 gauge metal fit flush. The inside curved corners where hard. A friend had a ball shaped buffing pad almost 6-8” in diameter, worked great with air drill and PSA sandpaper. Glad it works for you. The waist oil is a great tip for guys wanting to keep a vehicle looking good for a few more years. It works. Place some cardboard down if there are drain holes. Thanks for the video! Long time subscriber! Keep em coming…

lap weld it is for me. Thanks very informative

Neglected oil leak on a 98 Silverado has left behind the most rust free area of the frame and steering linkage. Put on a new power steering hose that was leaking so now I suppose that area will rust too.

Looks good to me bud. 👍, keep up with the rust repair videos….pure gold. 😊

Great video I repaired my tailgate last year and it started rusting again. This time I will start putting the oil on the inside of it. I subscribed to your channel bc of the motor oil suggestion.

Are used to know a guy in the 80s that oiled his truck twice a year would mix it with something and sprayed on on his frame it always stayed prfict no rot

The oils the secret sauce. I prefer a mix of used Dextron ATF / Vaseline petroleum jelly / bar and chain oil. I spray the undersides of my old beater truck every December. Just get it hot to spray and let Gretta 🙄worry about the drips.

Hi Jerry,when repairing a vehicle using a patch panel and a lap joint how do you manage to lose the over lapping panel in your prep work before painting so that the repair is invisible when finished ?….Great video btw 👍

Just discovered your site. Thanks for the great videos. You’ve got a PhD in communication.

Awesome. I always thought the after treatment made the difference not how it was welded. Those buttwelded cars on the TV shows are going to be kept indoors and never get wet. Lap welds coated with oil would outlast any untreated butt weld, MIG or TIG

U sound a lot like my dad

As always a great video I have been wrenching for 40 years now I have taken up body work just as a hobby and to get some of my cars done our 14 ford 450 wheel lift body is rusting bad no holes what is the best thing to stop rust and best paint to paint over it thanks for the videos

so many spend the big $ and time to repair but never protect the metal from the back side. Then wonder why it rots out again in a year or two.

Great advice, the sad thing is I bet the average person wouldn’t bother going to the trouble of doing it, thanks for sharing 👍

Jerry, by 1/2 inch apart, do you mean that you tack welded it, not fully welded it? Thank you!

Glad I found you a couple of months ago. Your videos are short, sweet, and honest. Couldn’t ask for more. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

thanks i do the same with the used oil in my doors for my 72 chevy